FAQ
How do I toilet train my puppy?
Should I teach my puppy to use newspaper?
What is the most effective way to toilet train my puppy?
What should I do at night or when I cannot be there?
Puppy pens & indoor kennels
What should I do if I catch my puppy toileting in the house?
To punish or not to punish?
How do I stop my dog jumping up?
How do you feed a fussy dog?
It doesn't have to be like this!
Now try thinking of things from your dog's perspective
Does your dog think he's the boss?
But it's not all being strict!
How do I stop him barking?
How can I stop my dog from barking when I approach?
Barking at the postman!
Barking at visitors
What preventative measures can I take?
Why does my dog chew the base of his tail?
How do I toilet train my puppy?
The length of time it takes for a puppy to become house-trained can vary widely. Some may pick it up almost instantly while others may take as long as six months. It is worthwhile remembering that puppies are not able to reliably control their sphincters until they are about 6 months old, so you may experience the occasional accident. The speed of litter training will obviously depend on the puppy but a large influence is the amount of time and effort that you put in.
Back to top »
Should I teach my puppy to use newspaper?
Training your puppy to urinate on paper has 2 major drawbacks:
- You are encouraging your puppy to go the toilet in the house, this will make it much more difficult as the puppy gets older to teach it that this is now wrong and that they should go outside.
- If urine soaks through the newspaper and gets in the carpet, it can be very difficult to remove the scent sufficiently so that the puppy cannot smell it and be attracted back to that spot. Avoid using commercial cleaners that contain ammonia or chlorine compounds as these are constituents of urine and may confuse your puppy.
If you do decide to use newspaper then lay a sheet of polythene underneath to prevent urine soaking through.
Back to top »
What is the most effective way to toilet train my puppy?
The simplest way to house train a puppy is to try and make sure that you do not allow your puppy the opportunity to make a mistake. This basically means that you should ensure that you take your puppy to the place you want it to eliminate at times when you can predict that the bowl and bladder will be full.
This will be:
- After meals and drinking
- After sleep
- After activity
Take the puppy outside (or to the paper if you have chosen this method), lead the puppy rather than carry. When the puppy begins to sniff around and circle as if needing to eliminate then begin to praise very gently. If you make too much fuss this will likely distract the puppy. As the puppy begins to eliminate you can praise a little more firmly or teach your puppy to eliminate on command by matching this with a command such as 'Hurry'. When your puppy has finished you can then give plenty of praise and perhaps a treat as reward. The more often you do this the quicker your puppy will pick this up.
You should ensure that your puppy is supervised at all times so that you can prevent mishaps. If you notice that your puppy looks like wanting to go, lead them outside to an appropriate area.
Back to top »
What should I do at night or when I cannot be there?
Many owners report that their puppy is fine during the day and will ask to go out but persist in toileting in the house over night. Most of these dogs will become clean at night by the age of 8 months. However, if your puppy is not clean by this age then this may be because a habit of toileting at this time has developed.
- Firstly you need to determine what time in the night your dog is toileting.
- Once you have determined this get up in the night and let your dog outside to eliminate before you anticipate that it will really need to go.
- The next night go down 5 or 10 minutes later and let your puppy out, praise for eliminating outside.
- For each subsequent night go down 10 minutes later until your puppy is able to wait until the morning.
Back to top »
Puppy pens & indoor kennels
When they are very young puppies often need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours. To prevent them from getting into the habit of eliminating in an inappropriate area you can use a puppy pen or indoor kennel.
Indoor kennels (cages) can be useful when litter training a puppy if they are used in the right way. A kennel should not be used to put the puppy in if the puppy does not like it, or as a punishment or just to keep the puppy out of the way of the comings and goings in the house. The kennel should be large enough for the puppy (consider the size it will be when older) to stand up in without stooping, lay flat out in and turn around it. It should contain the bed, water bowl and any toys you want to leave with the puppy.
Initially encourage your puppy to go into the kennel by giving attention and treats whilst in there. Your puppy will then learn that this is a safe place to be, where they can go whenever they want to rest. When the puppy is happy to go in there and sleep with the door open, you can start to shut the door for short periods until comfortable with this.
Ensure that the puppy is tired when in the kennel so that the puppy will just want to sleep and is not full of beans!
Indoor kennels or pens can be useful in puppy toilet training as they do not like to go to the toilet in their bed and feeding areas, this is an instinctive behaviour designed to keep the nest clean. However, if your puppy does have an accident punishment should not be used.
Back to top »
What should I do if I catch my puppy toileting in the house?
Avoid the temptation to run up to the puppy, grab it off the floor and whisk it outside. This will confuse the puppy rather that teach it that this is wrong. Instead interrupt the behaviour with a loud sound such as pebbles in a can and lead the puppy outside to the right place. If they show no signs of wanting to go again, play a game and see if this stimulates them.
Back to top »
To punish or not to punish?
Punishment of any kind is rarely useful in toilet training puppies, no matter how frustrated you get. Remember your puppy is not doing this to purposely annoy you, it may have been caught short or not quite understand what you have been trying to teach. Punishment is especially ineffective if there is any time between your puppy eliminating and when you find it. If you find a puddle it is better to clean it up and simply concentrate on showing your puppy the right thing to do.
Review what you have been doing so far:
- Are you taking the puppy outside often enough?
- Are you being quick enough with your praise?
Rubbing their noses in their mess or showing them it after are unlikely to be effective and will probably frighten your dog. They will probably not associate your anger with the puddle in front of them.
The main thing when toilet training is to persevere and ensure that you are rewarding your puppy correctly, the rest should come with time.
Back to top »
How do I stop my dog jumping up?
For many dogs, jumping up on people is part of their greeting routine. It is important to think about what motivates your dog to jump up and what form of reinforcement is causing the behaviour to continue.
Usually the motivation for jumping up is to greet people. Many dogs like to greet face to face like they do with their canine friends. However, for most owners the most acceptable greeting posture is a sit/stay, which can be rewarded with food or attention. Once your dog has perfected this form of greeting and practised it with other people in the household, you are ready for visitors.
Make your dog sit and stay while people come in and give your dog a reward (treat or praise). If your dog jumps up then put the dog back into the original sitting position and restart the exercise.
Another way of reinforcing this good behaviour is to invite visitors to your home at agreed times. As the first visitor comes to the door, you should instruct your dog to sit and stay. Then, the visitors are let in. Your dog should be made to sit whilst the visitor enters and then that visitor should give the dog a reward (treat or praise) as they pass the dog and go to sit down. After a few minutes, the visitor should leave via another door and then re enter by the front door and repeat the exercise. The second entry should be easier as your dog will have already seen this person and therefore, not be as excited. If you can repeat this exercise 4-6 times for each visitor, your dog should learn the benefits of responding correctly.
Once you have understood your dog's motivation and why they acts this way, you need to be able to reinforce the behaviour. If your dog receives any attention whilst jumping up then the jumping up will continue. Attention can be in the form of petting, pushing away or even mild reprimands (as this is still attention). To rectify this behaviour you need to make sure that no one (including yourself), looks, speaks, touches or has interaction with your dog if jumping up.
Once the correct behaviour is established it is time to introduce visitors who should continue to leave and re enter the house until your dog sits for the reward without hesitating.
Back to top »
How do you feed a fussy dog?
It can be very upsetting to have a fussy dog. You've been to the vet who has said there are no medical reasons for your dog to be refusing his food, and now you're on your own, tearing your hair out as he refuses to eat yet another expensive tasty morsel!
You've tried all the different types of dog food available, tasty biscuits, mouth-watering meaty morsels and many different treats, but he still looks up at you with those big brown eyes and refuses point blank to eat. At this stage you start to become concerned that your pet will starve, and try him on a little cooked chicken which is nibbled on, and before you know it you're taking more time to create and cook your dog's food than you do with your own!
Back to top »
It doesn't have to be like this!
It is possible, with a little time, and understanding of how a dog's mind works, to get your pet back onto a complete dog food that will provide the correct levels of the nutrients needed to keep him happy and healthy. Do always bear in mind that dogs do not have psychological eating disorders, they do not have that thought process.
The starting point is to use the food that your dog has previously eaten. If he prefers biscuits, then choose a good quality complete dry food, if tinned food appeals, then use a complete tinned dog food. The temptation when a pet refuses to eat is to offer anything, including human food, as long as they will eat it. By doing this, you are giving a choice, and your dog will soon learn to refuse petfood, if he/she knows that you will give in and offer your food. Not only is this bad for your dog, but it elevates him in the household 'pack'.
Dogs are pack animals, and to have a successful and fulfilling relationship with your dog, both parties must understand that you are the top dog in the pack, and that he is of lower rank. Once your pet starts to manipulate you at feeding times, he will be challenging your role as top dog!
A dog's dietary needs are different to ours, so human food is a definite no-no, and this includes the left over bits of your bacon and eggs for breakfast, and those shared cups of tea!
Back to top »
Now try thinking of things from your dog's perspective
"If I don't eat my biscuits then the human will give me what's left over from their dinner, or even better some freshly cooked chicken or treats. And if I look a bit sorry for myself she'll make a big fuss of me and go to a lot of trouble just for me - why should I eat dog food when I can get lots of other interesting foods and a lot of attention whenever I want!"
Dogs will very quickly pick up on the fact that if they turn their noses up at their dog food, their owners will panic and offer them anything that they will eat. And if you start to make an issue of meal times, not only will your dog get the food he wants but also lots of fuss and attention - dog heaven! Again, if you give in to these demands you are starting to lose authority. Your dog must recognise you as the pack leader.
A dog that is fed before its owner is elevated in the pack. In the wild the dominant dog or wolf always gets to feed from a carcass first. So try to feed your pet after the family has eaten, and keep him away from the family's eating areas during meals. Do not feed titbits from the table! This may seem quite strict, but correct behaviour now will save a lot of problems in the future.
When feeding your dog, any food not consumed within 15 minutes should be removed and food not offered again until the next set mealtime. She will soon get into a routine and realise that food is only available at set times. A dog that is offered titbits throughout the day has no need to eat set meals.
We would encourage you to leave your dog alone for the 15-minute duration of his mealtime. An owner fussing round could make the dog reluctant to eat, and extra attention whilst he is being fussy will only reinforce this difficult behaviour. If the food is eaten during this period then praise must be given after the bowl has been removed. Your dog will then associate eating normally as something that will be positively rewarded.
Back to top »
Does your dog think he's the boss?
- Is he allowed on the furniture?
- Does he sleep on (or in) your bed?
- Is he allowed to go through doors before you?
- Is he allowed to get away with bad behaviour?
A yes to any or all of the above, points to a dog which could see itself as being above its owners in the pack hierarchy. This causes great problems as you must be in control and will find it difficult to assert authority. These examples can be remedied fairly easily, for instance, if you are happy to let the dog on the furniture, permission must be given by you first.
Back to top »
But it's not all being strict!
As long as you initiate them, playtimes are fun and rewarding for you both. Lots of love and attention at the right times will reward you with a long and fulfilling relationship, and a happy and healthy dog who eats the right food at the right times!
Back to top »
How do I stop him barking?
To stop your dog from barking excessively you first need to determine what is motivating this behaviour and what your dog is trying to achieve and the situation that the behaviour is being exhibited in. Dogs vocalise for a variety of reasons including as a warning to others, excitement, anxiety and frustration. Whatever the cause, barking is very rewarding for the dog. When your dog sees you and barks you will naturally come to them. This will be a reward for the barking so next time your dog will likely bark harder. Each time that your dogs barking gets your attention, this reinforces the behaviour. When you do go to your dog and give any attention while barking this is further reward. Shouting to quieten your dog will make your dog think that you are joining in and is likely to cause further excitement!
Back to top »
How can I stop my dog from barking when I approach?
Barking is a very normal behaviour for dogs and barking when you approach your dog from a shop, for example, is probably just a sign of excitement and joy at seeing you, even if you have only been in the shop for a few minutes.
The aim of treatment for a noisy dog is to remove the reward and offer an alternative behaviour instead. You should try not to approach your dog when barking. Instead you should stop and turn your back on them. When the barking stops you can turn around and continue, again stopping if your dog begins barking again. Remember, your dog thinks that this behaviour has worked well in the past so, may just try harder initially, you must ignore this until eventually the dog is quiet. Then when quiet ask your dog to 'sit' and then praise your dog for this behaviour.
Although it may seem like a bizarre approach, teaching your dog to bark on command will give you more control over the behaviour as this enables you to teach a 'quiet' command as well. Stimulating the dog to bark and paring it with a 'speak' command can do this. Many repetitions will allow the dog to associate barking with the command. As the barking begins to subside give a 'quiet' command. As soon as your dog is quiet you can then give a reward. In some cases it may be necessary to show the dog the treat to get quiet. The treat is then taken away, the command reissued and the treat given. This training should be done in a controlled environment and not in a place where you cannot fully control your dog or feel under pressure to make your dog be quiet. Once your dog is reacting reliably you can use the commands in other situations.
Back to top »
Barking at the postman!
If your dog barks and will not be quiet when you have post etc delivered this is usually because your dog has not been socialised with these types of people when young and because every time your dog barks the intruder goes away. The dog will not realise that they would have gone away regardless and thinks that the behaviour has been effective so is more likely to do this again in the future. You can improve this by asking the postman to meet your dog so that your dog realises that the postman is not a threat (this should be outside and the dog should be on a lead to ensure that the postman does not get bitten). You can also leave some treats outside and ask the delivery person to put some treats through the letterbox with the post, this will show the dog again that the postman is not a threat.
Back to top »
Barking at visitors
With visitors the speak/quiet command can be used. Ask friends to visit a little more often and explain that it may take you a while to answer the door. Keep your dog on a trailing lead with a head collar if necessary so that you can get control easily. Allow your dog to bark once or twice but when you get to the door issue the quiet command. If your dog will not be quiet hold a very tasty treat or a favourite toy under its nose, your dog will not be able to bark and sniff at the same time. When quiet take the treat away say "quiet" again and give the treat and praise. You can then open the door while restraining your dog. Invite your guest in, as long as your dog is quiet then you and your guest can reward your dog. If your dog is making noise you must either ignore this or do not give any further reward until quiet again. You will need to repeat this as often as possible to be effective.
Ensure that the whole family is involved in the training wherever possible and that other members of the family are not encouraging undesirable behaviour. Avoid telling your dog off for this behaviour as this will just encourage it more as you are still giving attention even if it is negative, however, it may actually make your dog more upset.
Back to top »
What preventative measures can I take?
Avoid putting your dog in situations that you know will cause a problem. Give your dog something to do when you anticipate a problem. Try using a 'Kong', which is a durable rubber toy that can be filled with food (dry is best). Then run water through it freeze and feed. When your dog is sitting quietly reward with attention.
If you think that your dog may accidentally hurt someone when barking and attacking things then you should contact your vet or an animal behaviourist immediately.
There are also muzzles available that allow a dog to open their mouth but are elasticated to make prolonged barking tiresome and so make a useful training aid this device is called 'The Husher' (an elasticated theraputic anit-barking muzzle) see www.pets.f9.co.uk for further advice on this.
As a last resort you may wish to try a devise called an 'Aboistop Collar', this is an antibarking collar that emits a burst of citronella when your dog barks and is worn like a normal collar. This scent is very unpleasant for your dog, who will soon learn not to bark. However, these do not often cure the behaviour, as many dogs will just not bark when the collar is on. These collars are quite harsh on a dog's sensitive nose but very effective while they are being worn. If the noise is upsetting your neighbours it may be something to look into but we would not really recommend it. These collars should be available from your vet and you should discuss this with them before using one.
Often this behaviour can be related to an underling medical condition, we recommend that your dog is checked by a vet to ensure that all is well, even if there are no other symptoms. If your dog is only barking when left alone this may be a separation related issue that will require a slightly different method of treatment. You may wish to seek the help of a behaviourist, your vet can refer you or contact the Association of Pet Behaviour Councillors on www.apbc.org.uk or call 01386 751 151 who should be able to put you in touch with a local advisor.
Back to top »
Why does my dog chew the base of his tail?
There are many reasons why your dog is chewing this area. The three main reasons may be…
- Worms - these can cause irritation around your dog's back end. Often they nibble or chew and can be seen 'scooting' around on their bottom. Your vet will be able to provide you with an effective wormer, which will alleviate the problem.
- Anal glands - he could have blocked or infected anal glands. These glands are situated either side of the anal entrance and secrete a fluid onto the faeces. Unfortunately, some dogs are prone to suffering blockages of these glands, which can progress to very uncomfortable infections. Your vet will be able to check and empty these glands if this is the problem. Dogs typically try to get to the area of discomfort, and as they cannot reach, they appear to be chewing at the top of the tail to relieve the discomfort.
- Fleas - if these are present, this is the area that they can most likely be found. Therefore, ensure that your dog is up to date with his flea prevention treatment. Fleas thrive in our centrally heated houses throughout winter, so prevention needs to be all year round. Make sure you are using a good quality product from your vets. We would recommend a trip to the vet to get your dog checked over.
Back to top »
|
|